By Marcellus C. Taylor
Abstract
This study looks at the role of masculinity in the practices of the Black Student Union Fashion Show at Penn State Harrisburg. The study critically examines the way the male character perform their masculinity in light of the feminine stereotypes of typical fashion shows. Also it engages male participants in their personal accounts and experiences in the fashion show. Finally, because of the exotic nature of modeling within the show, this study will engage the male participants in their feelings of masculine expressions such as gender and sexual orientation. The study is a combination of in depth interviews and observations. There were five interviews and three observations conducted over three months. The initial findings suggest that the male models felt that they had to “switch up” there masculinity to fit the modeling world. Also there performance of masculinity included feminine qualities, dominance and control.
Keywords: masculinity, fashion show, performance
Introduction
Modeling is distinguished from other types of public performance, such as an acting, dancing or mime artist, although the boundary is not well defined. Appearing in a movie or a play is not considered modeling. However, models may be considered to express emotion in their photographs or video. (Williams at el 1999) The culture of modeling is one that is fierce, innovative and often a difficult atmosphere to individuals who are considered outsiders of this social world. A few of those outsiders include males, plus size females and people of color.
Male models are seen as the outsiders because the world of modeling has been dominated by females who have transformed the field. My study examines the nature and culture of such models. I have studied analyzed and discovered patterns and trends that are created when males participate in this unique culture. The male models in this study were all part of the Black Student Union Fashion Show at Penn State Harrisburg located in Middletown, Pennsylvania.
The Black Student Union Fashion Show, cast of members was in total twenty-four students. I had the privilege of engaging the male models in the production which in total was ten of the twenty-four. There were many social structures to this fashion show that led to a few different themes of the subculture of the male models. I notice that performance; sexuality and masculine identity were all important themes that were birth out of the performance of fashion modeling for the male models.
METHODS
My study is a combination of interviews and observations. I wanted to get a group and individual perspective on their view of the social world of fashion modeling and the role of masculinity with the entire social setting. The settings for the interviews and the observations vary on the location of the fashion show rehearsal, availability of empty rooms and the director’s demands of the models. Overall these two methods proved to be essential in the development of this entire project.
One of the greatest experiences of this entire research project was the interviews. I was able to engage five of the male models in an honest dialogue about masculinity, sexuality and performance. I was able to gain a high level of entrée because I had developed relationship with these models prior to my research. My first interview was with a model that will be referred to as Cruzie. This interview took place on February 16th, in W-213 in the Olmstead Building of Penn State Harrisburg. Cruzie was a vibrant, energetic and open model who loved to dance and model. The second interview was with Rex the director of the entire Black Student Union Fashion Show. Rex and I met in W-213 in the Olmsted Building of Penn State Harrisburg and had a great dialogue about his design and implantation of the show.
The next set of interviews took place the following week on February 23rd. Both interviews were held in the Gallery Lounge located at Penn State Harrisburg. The third model that I interview wanted to be address as Fresh Prince. He was a comical individual who liked to in his own words “keep it real” about the entire fashion show. Next was Ace, who had a few interesting sentiments about sexuality. My final interview was conducted a little over a month from the last interview. I interviewed Pop, a novice to the whole modeling culture. We interviewed in the Kunkle Auditorium of Penn State Harrisburg while the rehearsal was taking place.
The interviews were another essential component to the overall effectiveness of this paper. I conducted three interviews which gave me tremendous insight into the social world of modeling. Each observation was intriguing and I learned something new from every experience. The first observation was on February 9th, at 9 pm in the Kunkle Auditorium at Penn State Harrisburg. At this observation I discovered that there was a system of stratification within the male models. There were individuals who were talented and skilled male models, jokesters and people who tried hard but could not complete choreographic task.
The seconded observation occurred on February 16th, at 7:15 pm in the Gallery Lounge at Penn State Harrisburg. This observation was fascinating because for the first time I saw the male models try to prove that they could model. When an individual would do well I notice that the called that person a “Diva”. This term made me think internally about how they view themselves as male models. The third observation was on February 23rd, in the Kunkle Auditorium at Penn State Harrisburg. For this observation I gained a greater level of awareness of the conflict of femininity and masculinity.
In both the interviews and observations I gained valuable information. In the interviews the way I discovered themes was I asked questions that specifically dealt with the topic at hand. This was critical because the wrong questions could of hid important information from this project. In the observations I had to totally remove my bias and see the situation as a new and intriguing setting. The issues I ran into were the demands of the director. The director was demanding and often didn’t allow models to interview during practice. I had to either meet before or after the practice was over to secure enough time to interview.
In essence the methods used in this study allowed me to explore a subculture that is compacted with countless patterns and themes. Also this methodological approach allowed me to discover the true feeling of male models in the Black Student Union Fashion Show at Penn State Harrisburg. The respondents gave me tremendous insight into the attitude and nature of the male models in the show. They were my extra set of eyes and ears that enabled me to paint a masterpiece of male modeling and the themes and characteristics that are associated with this culture.
Analysis
Three major themes emerged from the critical analysis of the male models that participated in the Black Student Union Fashion show. The first was the performance of modeling in a feminine environment. Performance for the sake of this study is defined as the “carrying out” of a particular task or role. The second theme is sexuality. Sexuality is understood in this study as the condition of being characterized and distinguished by sex. The final theme is masculine identity. This theme is the most prevalent in the observations and interviews conducted with the male models.
Performance
Performance is the “carrying out” of a particular task or role. Before we can analyze any other theme we have to closely look at the situation itself. First it is critical to note that in the words of author Ervin Goffman, “that part of the individual’s performance which regularly functions in a general and fixed fashion to define the situation for those who observe the performance… is the
expressive equipment of a standard kind intentionally or unwittingly employed by the
individual during his performance.” ( Goffman 1969). This quote refers to the concept of performance and the characters that carry out various roles. In every social situations performance is critical to the process of engagement and completion of any production.
Sexuality
Sexuality is the condition of being characterized and distinguished by sex. In this study sexuality is critical in the performance of modeling. Men in female-dominated occupations do encounter questions regarding their sexuality. This questioning, however, does little to impede their progress in the organization. To reaffirm their masculinity, these men seek out male identified specialties, emphasize masculine aspects of the job, and pursue administrative positions. (Williams 1989, 1995)
“Feminine” Activity
In the case of one interviewed male models he notes these following sentiments about modeling being a feminine activity:
I don't believe that modeling is a "feminine activity". I think the notion of modeling being a "feminine activity" has been established between majority of the models are females, and there aren't many opportunities in modeling to show much masculinity. Being concerned with how you walk, how you dress, and maintaining your posture while 'twisting, turning, and spinning' are associated more with feminine attributes versus male attributes. I believe modeling is much like nursing, in that aspect.
In the examining of this above statement we see the concept of sexuality rest heavily on the difference between actual and perceived gender occupations. When I critically read and examined the text, “Men Who Cheer”, I discovered that the concept of a “feminine activity” was a major stigma that made the male cheerleaders uncertain of their place in cheer-leading. Another male model uses these words to express his feeling about modeling being a “feminine activity”:
At first I did think it was a feminine activity. On shows like “America’s Next Top Model” they are pretty sexist since they are only looking for women, so it helps mold that stereotype that modeling would only be for girls.
Perception of Homosexuality
Another concept under the theme of sexuality is homosexuality. Since modeling is often seen as a “feminine” activity, those males who perform are often labeled as feminine and homosexual. In “Men Who Cheer”, the author mentions that “Men who cheer are perceived and labeled as homosexual”. (Bemiller 2005) So true is this study, many of the male models initially believed that modeling was for women and secondly for gay men. The director of the show expressed this belief heads on in the following statements when asked “how did the fashion change you?
” It changed how I viewed fashion and modeling. It's not just for women or gay males".
The Selling of Sex
All throughout the rehearsals I noticed that the concept of sex was intertwined in every scene. During my second visit I notice this type of behavior. After a critical analysis I noticed that the male models in the show responded more efficiently when the concept of sex was involved. In “Men Who Cheer” a few males actuality were more inclined to participate in cheer-leading because the females were “hot”. I recorded some descriptions in my field notes:
"During this scene I saw for the first time the strong influence of sex and sexuality. The female model that was playing the role of Rihanna blew kisses, rubbed her body in a sexual manner and did an occasional wink. Such behavior is a classical representation of sex. The male modes seemed poise to participate in this scene. Three of them were chosen to have major roles. The male with tightest abs got the leading role. Additionally the males were covered with oil to add to the sexiness of the scene. The female models truly embraced their role and turned into sexy, luring and passionate performers'.
Throughout the entire scene I notice that the male models seemed extremely comfortable interacting with the females. The male models I interviewed also believed that sex was a major part in the culture of modeling. One male gives this great summery of the selling of sex:
"It was a way to appeal to the audience as well as a way for the models to feel more secure with their own sexuality".
Masculine Identity
In this study I also discovered a theme of the male models trying to hold on to their concept of a masculine identity. Masculine, for this study was defined as anything traditionally considered being characteristic of a male. This concept can be analyzed from two different prospective, dominance and aggression.
Dominance
Dominance was a critical factor in the performance in the rehearsals of the fashion show for the male models. Rex, the director used this to encourage the other male models to aim for perfection. In this study dominance wasn’t about vocal control but rather chorographical skills. A male model I interviewed used these words to explain the role of dominance in the fashion show rehearsals:
Dominance at the fashion show rehearsals came into play when it came to whose going to be in the front for choreography scenes and who had the best model walk/pose. I think the goal for males in modeling is not only showing off what they're wearing, but to also have a walk/pose that shows power, personality, sex appeal, and how "suave" you are.
Aggression
The use of violence and aggression are common characteristics utilized in maintaining masculinity for men. ( Connell 1995,2002; Messner 2005). This this sub-concept was made evident in the “Fight Club” scene of the fashion show. The males seemed to embrace aggressive characteristics to assert their masculine identity. I noticed the following:
"The next scene was a replica of an actually fight. There were two male models in the centered of the huddle of male models appearing to be fighting one another. The male models came really close to actually hitting each other. They rolled on the floor and pushed each other with such malice and passion. After the scene I asked one of the male models who was engaged in the fighting segment of the scene, “how was he able to perform that well during his part”? He said, “I use to fight a lot when I was younger, and actually it seems pretty normal to be”. His sentiments helped me realize that aggression, control and authority too many of the modes was normal behavior".
Conclusion
The aim of this study was to explore and the sub-culture of male modeling. The findings suggest that the male models that participated in the Black Student Union Fashion Show were transformed by the modeling and also that they redefine modeling to fit their personal identity. The themes of performance, sexuality and masculine identity served as a set of lenses to view the male models within the show. In this study we also discovered that the male models had an initial fear of modeling because of the “feminine” and homosexual connotation that is associate with modeling. Another critical finding is that the male models related to feeling of dominance and aggression to help them perform as models.
The study also points out that a central idea surrounding the entire fashion show was sex. Sex was used to engage the audience and to lure the male models into participating and interacting with the females in the show. Homosexuality came off as a phobia of many of the male models. They initially thought that only gay men participated in modeling. This fear caused many of the men to hesitate performing certain scene and being a part of the entire production.
In the future a study of this nature must dive deeper into the felling of the women who watch the male models perform this craft. This study did not engage the female models on their view of male models and the stereotypes that they associate with them. Future researchers should also be advised that a study of this nature is about catching the models in the act of modeling. This is a study of individuals practicing a particular art form; it’s not about the personal lives of models.
References
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Connell, R. W. 1987 Gender and power : society, the person, and sexual politics / R.W. Connell Polity Press in association with B. Blackwell, Cambridge, UK :
Goffman, E. (1959). The presentation of self in everyday life. Garden City, NY: Doubleday/Anchor Books.
Michael A. Messner (2005) “Still A Man’s World?: Studying Masculinities and Sport,” pp. 313-325 in Michael S. Kimmel, Jeff Hearn & R. W. Connell, eds. The Handbook of Studies on Men and Masculinities. Sage Publications.
Williams, Roshumba; Anne Marie O'Connor (1999). The Complete Idiot's Guide to Being A Model. Penguin. pp. 159–160. ISBN 9781592575923
Williams, Christine L., 1995 Still a man's world : men who do "women's work" / Christine L. Williams University of California Press, Berkeley :
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